Sunday Morning Catch Up
An overdue catch up full of books, art and, not surprisingly, more books.
🎧 Read with Sunday Morning Put-On by the Andrew Bird Trio.
—“Lĕvĭtās” by Andrea Roggi, installation in Amalfi, October 2024.
If I had a life motto, it would probably be something like: When in doubt, apply books. As I make my way through what Mary Oliver called this “one wild and precious life,” I’ve realized there are very few things that a cup of tea, a shower, or books can’t make better. (Note: not fix, but make better.) I suspect we all have a short list of things that help during a challenging time. My favorite has always been books. So, as an offering for a much overdue catch up, I am here to apply books.
November 1st is something like a tourist season light switch on the Amalfi Coast. Usually, this coincides with a change of weather and the arrival of the typical November rainy days. This year, however, the unseasonably nice October spilled over into November and it came as something of a surprise to see many shops and restaurants closed from one day to the next. The relief of an exhale after holding an inhale a little too long.
It’s been a busy season for so many and now it’s time for a much-deserved rest. While my work is not seasonal, I watch the changes around town happen like you might watch the leaves begin to tinge yellow, orange, or red and then eventually flutter to the ground. I love autumn.
—“Famiglia in Volo” by Andrea Roggi.
Now we are in those quiet, anonymous days before the holiday decorations arrive—in time for the festival of Sant’ Andrea on November 30th—and November rain is now on the horizon. This year I’ll be missing the celebrations, but will be thinking of St. Andrew in the country where he is the patron saint – Scotland. Continuing my exploration of St. Andrew in Scotland, we even have plans to go see the National Shrine of of Saint Andrew while in Edinburgh.
Before heading off to what I’ve called my “Filling the Creative Well Trip”—as a nod to Julia Cameron—to London and Scotland, I wanted to share a little about these Andrea Roggi sculptures, which have been in Amalfi since the summer, and a handful of books – some of which might make excellent presents since gift giving season is near.
Lĕvĭtās: Andrea Roggi in Amalfi
If you’ve visited Amalfi since November last year, you may have spotted the beautiful bronze sculpture Koi No Yokan by Andrea Roggi located near the Gran Caffè. After the success of the Bruno Catalano open-air exhibit in Amalfi last year, this year Amalfi has hosted five sculptures by the Italian artist Andrea Roggi in an exhibition called Lĕvĭtās.
—“Koi No Yokan” by Andrea Roggi.
I’ve loved having this exhibition here in Amalfi since the summer. On my morning walks, it’s been a beautiful experience watching Amalfi around—and through—these sculptures and how it changed from the busy heat of summer to the cooler autumn mornings. While the exhibition was due to wrap up at the end of October, it has been extended through the end of the year. So if your travels are bringing you to Amalfi now through the holiday season, be sure to take the time to find all five sculptures around town.
—“Il Cerchio della Vita (Circle of Life)” by Andrea Roggi.
Pro Art Hunting Tip: The fifth one called Il Cerchio della Vita is only visible if you take the elevator up to the cemetery in Amalfi.
What I’m Reading…
As I’ve been preparing for my upcoming trip to London, I’ve been perusing Don't be a Tourist in London: The Messy Nessy Chic Guide by Vanessa Grall. I’ve long been a fan of the weird and wonderful world of Messy Nessy Chic, and this guide is everything you’d expect – a real mix of what I love about London and it’s many charming and historic spots. Plus, it features London Perfect, which will be my home for a week in Kensington. When it comes to vacation rental accommodations, they’re the OG. Full disclosure: I’ve worked with them since 2009 and love the team. But I think the length of that relationship says it all. (Have you heard that London Perfect is celebrating their 25th anniversary?)
I’ve also finally read a book I’ve been wanting to read for ages, the delightful A Far Cry from Kensington by Muriel Spark. Easily one of the best books I’ve read this year, you can read a bit more of my thoughts about it in the Instagram post above.
And I’ve also been taking an interesting dip back in time in Mary Jane Cryan’s book Etruria: Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy. I loved visiting this part of Italy back in 2022 and this book delves into the history but also has a lot of information on what to do there today. Mary Jane writes The Painted Palazzo on Substack and you can find out more about her books and order them direct from her website.
A Sweet Holiday Book from the Amalfi Coast
Earlier this year, the Pasticceria Pansa in Amalfi published their first cookbook Pansa: A Sweet Story from 1830. It’s a beautiful edition with a history of this family-run bakery, photos by local photographer Emanuele Anastasio and recipes for Pansa’s most popular sweets. The edition is in both Italian and English, so it makes a great gift for bakers or anyone who loves the sweet side of the Amalfi Coast.
The book is available for order on the Pasticceria Pansa website here. I’m mentioning it now, because just last week I was in Pansa for tea and noticed all the Christmas chocolates and desserts already lining the shelves. Andrea Pansa shared with me that next week they’re starting in on all the baking of their delicious panettoni for the holidays. Soon the entire inside of Pasticceria Pansa will be stacked high with boxes of panettoni. And this year they’re making a new one called the Favoloso with milk and dark chocolate and candied lemon. That’s going to be the panettone I try this year!
—Pansa full of panettoni for Christmas.
Want a taste of the Amalfi Coast for the holidays? You can order from Pansa now and they’ll start shipping orders on December 2nd with arrival by Christmas. If you order more than €250, they’re also including their book Pansa: A Sweet Story Since 1830 for free. Besides books, supporting local businesses might just be my favorite thing, so I’d be remiss to not share how you can do just that even from afar this holiday season. And in a very sweet way!
By the way, I don’t do any sort of paid promotion here. I just love Pansa and it’s where I get Christmas sweets every year. Last year I had the Lemon Panettone and it was incredible. My personal favorites: the Mostaccioli and the Divino Amore. It’s just not Christmas in Amalfi without both of those as a special treat!
How—and where—will you be celebrating the holidays this year? After this fun trip to London and Scotland, I’ll be back here for Christmas and New Year’s in Amalfi. I’m already looking forward to returning in December to see Amalfi decorated for the festive season!
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Great post, I remember our coffee outside Pasticceria Pansa and will mention Ciao Amalfi and the new book in an upcoming 'The Lemon Grove' Substack
That lemon panettone from Pansa sounds amazing! Perfect for a bracing (& hopefully foggy) Venetian Christmas.