On the Road ... to Florence
Spending a few days in my favorite Italian city.
Before I knew what was happening, I was on a train shooting through the Campania countryside at a couple hundred kilometers per hour. A whoosh of a tunnel and all would go black, then moments later the early morning sun would burst back through the windows. Just beyond I spotted the gentle humps of Mt. Vesuvius as the train zipped past Naples. I had taken the earliest bus from Amalfi to Salerno – the bus that feels as if it’s driving straight into the rising sun reflected across the Gulf of Salerno. The warm sun and curves had lulled me into a slow, dreamy state that lingered as I settled into my seat on the train.
But suddenly looking out at Vesuvius I realized I was traveling again. For me, the quick trip I took to Florence last month was the first time I’ve been out of the Campania region since the start of the pandemic. And it was to Florence – my favorite city!
“… there emerged Florence, a magic city where people thought and did the most extraordinary things.”
— From A Room with a View by E.M. Forster
While I adore the Amalfi Coast towns, when it comes to cities Florence was perhaps my first love in Italy. Of course, that’s not really surprising as it’s the birthplace of the Renaissance, it’s the city of Dante, of Brunelleschi’s dome, of Michelangelo’s David, Proust’s “city of lilies,” and Stendhal Syndrome all around. Yet, besides all the obvious reasons to love Florence, I think what draws me in time and again is that I can’t quite put my finger on why. Just like the first time I fell in love, there’s really no accounting for it in the end. But you don’t ever forget those first loves, do you? Fortunately, Florence has been much kinder with my heart!
-Perseus with the Head of Medusa by Cellini in Piazza della Signoria.
The first time I visited Florence was not too long after an excellent class in grad school on early Renaissance sculpture in Florence. Walking past Orsanmichele, gazing at the glimmering golden doors of the Baptistery, and visiting the Bargello and Uffizi museums was like watching the course come to life. Then there are those incredible church facades I spent so many hours looking at while working on my Master’s thesis on the eclectic 19th-century facade of Amalfi’s Duomo.
Since then, I’ve spent treasured time in Florence with good friends, exploring the city and falling for the warm colors of the Ponte Vecchio and that experience of turning a corner and coming face to face with the soaring geometric patterns of white, green, and pink marble on the Duomo. Nothing sends my Stendhal Syndrome into overdrive like polychromy!
In short, Florence is so many pieces of my past made present. And now it’s also a great piece of my present! I was in Florence for just a few days for work and had a great time meeting up with the fabulous teams from Paris Perfect, Italy Perfect, and London Perfect who I’ve worked with since 2009. It was so great to catch up in person after these last couple of challenging years. (When you find really good people, hang on tight!)
I had a sneak peek at an exciting new project from Italy Perfect (check out the video above!), strolled through the Oltrarno neighborhood, spent a hot summer morning in the Boboli Gardens, saw the incredible Donatello exhibit at Palazzo Strozzi (alas – it closes this weekend!), and really wished I had my tour guide husband with me in the Pitti Palace (OMG that place is chock-a-block with treasures).
-My books on display at Paperback Exchange in Florence!
Florence, always true to my heart, unexpectedly offered me one of the most exciting experiences I’ve had as an author. Whenever I’m in Florence, I always stop by Paperback Exchange, a beautiful English language bookstore near the Duomo. When I did I gasped – there were BOTH of my books in the window display! It was the first time I had seen Moon Amalfi Coast and Moon Southern Italy on display in a bookstore in Italy and to see it at the Paperback Exchange was a real honor. It was such a special moment that I just had to share it with you! It reminded me of another favorite passage from A Room with View:
“Then the pernicious charm of Italy worked on her, and, instead of acquiring information, she began to be happy.”
— From A Room with a View by E.M. Forster
All too soon I was on a train again heading south. My feet ached and my mind swirled but I was happy.
Grazie Florence!
TRAVEL TO FLORENCE WITH MOON
Speaking of Moon guidebooks, if you’ll be visiting Florence soon, pick up a copy of Florence & Beyond or Rome, Florence & Venice by Alexei J. Cohen. They’re both great guidebooks for planning and to tuck in your back while traveling.
(Note: Those are affiliate links, which means books purchased won’t cost you more but will give Ciao Amalfi a little commission.)
-View of the Duomo from the Boboli Gardens.
FLORENCE TRAVEL TIPS
There’s a wealth of information out there on Florence, but here are some tips from my most recent trip.
Where To Go:
Especially if you’ve already been to Florence and have visited the top sights like the Uffizi Gallery, the Duomo and Brunelleschi’s dome, gazed up at Michelangelo’s David, and gotten lost in Santa Croce (with or without a Baedeker), here are some places you won’t want to miss:
Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens: Stroll around the lavish Grand Ducal residence of the Medici family and their expansive gardens located very near the Ponte Vecchio. Go all the way to the top to the Palazzina del Cavaliere for a beautiful view toward San Miniato al Monte – another church well worth the visit.
Check for special exhibits at the Palazzo Strozzi. Don’t assume Florence is all Renaissance all the time. This autumn they have an exhibit on Olafur Eliasson from Sept. 22, 2022 - Jan. 22, 2023.
But, when it comes to the Renaissance, don’t miss the Museo Nazionale del Bargello. It’s definitely in my top 5 favorite museums around the world.
Florence is an embarrassment of riches when it comes to small museums. Check out these 6 Hidden Gems in Florence.
Where To Eat:
This is always a pleasurable moment in Florence. Where to eat with so many great restaurants around every corner? Here are a few spots I enjoyed:
La Bussola: This was an excellent pizza – and that says a lot coming from the land of pizza (Naples) and the city of the compass (Amalfi).
Ristorante La Spada: I wanted to try everything, but I went for the classic Tuscan Ribollita soup and it was lovely.
Raw Vegan Firenze: It was at least 9 million degrees when I was exploring the Oltrarno neighborhood and a fresh juice from Raw Vegan juice bar really hit the spot. The menu also looked tempting!
Gelateria Della Passera: Of course gelato was required and the Italy Perfect team took me straight to this tiny little shop on the cutest of corners.
Where To Shop:
Another most pleasurable of past times in Florence is shopping – there are so many choices for this small-town gal!
First on my list is always always the Paperback Exchange Bookshop. They have a great selection across the board, but their selection of books about Florence and Italy is excellent.
Don’t miss seeing Santa Maria Novella (the church of course) but also Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, the oldest pharmacy in the world!
It’s no secret that I love paper, so I always have to stop in Il Papiro when in Florence. They have several locations around the city, but my favorite is the teeny one located behind the Duomo (Piazza del Duomo, 24r). The contrast between the massive cathedral and the little shop is divine.
I wanted to buy one of everything in Giulia Materia, a cute boutique full of handmade clothing and accessories in Oltrarno.
Where To Stay:
I speak from personal experience when I say that Italy Pefect has a beautiful and carefully selected portfolio of vacation rentals in Florence. They know each apartment inside and out and truly help you craft the perfect stay in Florence – and throughout Italy.
I stayed in the very cute Michaela apartment with a great location just around the corner from Palazzo Strozzi and elegant Via Tornabuoni. Their Prisco and Strozzi apartments are in the same building, which is perfect if you need more space for your family or group of friends. The owners who welcome you to these apartments are absolutely the sweetest – it feels like you’re visiting your Italian family!
If you love Florence, Italy Perfect has some exciting projects in the works. Follow them on Instagram and sign up for their newsletter to be the first to hear!
ON THE ROAD
Thanks for joining me with the first Ciao Amalfi On the Road series on Substack! Next month I’ll be sharing about a special time with friends in Lazio (and swimming in the largest volcanic lake in Europe!) and Rome. Bookmark this list, share with friends, and tell me about your favorite things to see and do in Florence in the comments below (if you’re reading online or on the Substack app) or just hit reply (if you’re reading via email).
I look forward to checking out your recommendations the next time I’m in my favorite Italian city!
Ciao from Amalfi,
Laura
Loved your thoughts and tips for Florence!❤️
You're 100% right that what makes us love a certain place is ineffable, a feeling we know but can't put into words.