On the Road ... to Albori. Wait where?
The most beautiful village you've never heard of on the Amalfi Coast.
When I first visited the Amalfi Coast back in 2007, I stayed in Vietri sul Mare. I had read about the ceramic traditions in this colorful town known as the “Gateway to the Amalfi Coast.” I was fascinated—and still am— with Paolo Soleri’s incredible ceramic covered building for Ceramica Artistica Solimene. It is a town full of art, history, and traditions. What’s not to love? (In fact, the novel I’m writing with my mother is set in Vietri!)
Last week on the way home from Salerno I suggested we take a short detour and visit Albori. It was a beautiful October day with the sun shimmering across the Gulf of Salerno. I had heard about this little frazione, a small and often separate village, of Vietri sul Mare, but I hadn’t been there before. Vietri, like most of the towns on the coastline, has many frazioni. If you’ve spent time exploring Vietri sul Mare, you’ve likely been down to Marina di Vietri or up in the mountains to Raito to visit the excellent little ceramics museum there. But have you been to Albori? Have you even heard of Albori?
A small village with less than 300 residents, Albori was on my radar because it has been designated as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy by I Borghi più belli d'Italia, an association dedicated to highlighting and preserving small Italian towns. The name means Most Beautiful Villages of Italy and it selects towns that are notable for not only their beauty but also their history, geographic setting, and quality of life. Of the 12 Borghi più belli d’Italia in Campania, the Amalfi Coast has 4: Albori, Atrani, Conca dei Marini, and Furore. While Atrani, Conca del Marini, and Furore are 3 of the 13 towns that make up the Amalfi Coast, Albori was a spot I hadn’t visited yet. Honestly, after a doctor’s appointment, who doesn’t need more beautiful Italian villages in their life? So after passing through the center of Vietri, we took the small road up toward Raito and Albori.
- View of Vietri sul Mare from Le Vigne di Raito
Raito is incredibly cute and offers a particularly scenic east facing view over Vietri sul Mare. If you’re planning time in the area, reach out to Le Vigne di Raito for a tour and wine tasting where you can really enjoy that spectacular view and setting. We followed the zigzagging road up to Raito where it becomes so narrow that a traffic light alternates one way traffic through the village. After passing through Raito, the road curves around the mountain and into a valley where Albori comes into view.
It’s a colorful jumble of houses stuck in an improbable spot surrounded by verdant mountains. Set as it is in this green valley with a view straight out to sea, it feels surprisingly isolated and calm. Despite there only being one narrow road in and very limited parking, we easily found a spot. If tranquility was one of the requirements to be a part of I Borghi più belli d'Italia, Albori has it in spades. We meandered through the village and only happened across a few builders taking a lunch break.
I had seen photos of the pretty staircase leading up to the church of Santa Margherita di Antiochia in Albori. The pretty yellow church is right in the center of the village and the maze of streets up and down around it is indeed beautiful.
We walked up to the church and like a couple of kids outside a candy shopped pressed our noses to the glass on the door to peer inside. I spotted an odd-shaped nave on the right and was startled when I heard a key turn and a voice invite us inside. It belonged to a very kind man wearing overalls who was doing some work in the church. He was born in Albori and said with pride that he had been baptized in the church too.
The church is decorated in a surprisingly light and intricate Baroque style. We looked around and admired the pretty paintings on the ceiling and I found my way over to the trapezoid shaped side aisle. The asymmetrical design mimics the placement of the church within the village’s streets. I had to stop for a closer look at a statue of a female saint standing quite triumphantly with her foot on what looked like a dragon with a chain around its neck.
- Inside the church of Santa Margherita di Antiochia in Albori.
The man walked up and said she was Santa Margherita di Antiochia, the patron saint of the church and of Albori. He shared a bit of her history, which was new to me. I hadn’t seen another church on the Amalfi Coast dedicated to that saint. And, to be honest, the dragon caught my eye. It is quite a story!
After a bit more of a stroll through town our spur of the moment trip to Albori was over. If you like out of the way places and beautiful settings, Albori is a lovely spot to visit while exploring Vietri sul Mare. I would definitely go back to try out the restaurants there as it’s so peaceful. (They were both closed for lunch the day we were there.)
HOW TO GET TO ALBORI: Albori isn’t exactly an easy place to reach without a car or scooter. However, there is a (tiny) local bus from the center of Vietri sul Mare that goes around to the frazioni and stops right in Albori. If you’re driving, look for the signs just west of Vietri sul Mare from the SS 163 (Amalfi Coast Road) that point up to Raito. Follow the road through Raito and continue on to Albori. There’s only one road … you can’t miss it!
- Verdant mountains around Albori.
Exploring the Smaller Villages of the Amalfi Coast
You don’t have to go quite so far out of your way to find beautiful little villages on the Amalfi Coast. Just around Amalfi, you can visit the town of Scala, where I lived in a very tranquil spot for 12 years in a frazione so small it’s called Minuta. Located between Scala and Amalfi is Pontone, another beautiful frazione of Scala. Pogerola, located up in the mountains above Amalfi, is a quiet and charming frazione of Amalfi. Above Positano you’ll find Montepertuso and Nocelle. Whether on foot—usually the best option—or by bus, car, or scooter, do get out and explore the smaller villages on the Amalfi Coast.
Interested in reading more about the other Borghi più belli d’Italia on the Amalfi Coast? I’ve covered Atrani, Conca dei Marini, and Furore in my book Moon Amalfi Coast.
The A to Z of Beautiful Villages
After our quick trip to Albori, I’m curious about the other villages selected in Campania. What do you think? Should we do the A to Z of the Borghi più belli d’Italia in the Campania region and visit them all from Albori to Zungoli?
Ciao from Amalfi,
Laura
That church was gorgeous! We're spending the month in Levanto, next to the Cinque Terre and I think I'm falling hard for this part of the world. Not so much the CT itself -- too many tourists -- but the terrain and the climate and people are wonderful!
I would love to read an A-Z! Thank you for sharing your sweet and quiet discovery.