Ciao from an unseasonably hot Amalfi! It’s been much warmer than usual across Italy for weeks now, but that makes it even more enticing than ever to dive into the sea. That’s just what is needed to cool off during this busy summer, which started with the 66th Regata delle Antiche Repubbliche Marinare, the Regatta of the Historical Marine Republics, on June 5th. This boat race and historic parade takes place every June and rotates between the four participating cities of Amalfi, Pisa, Genoa, and Venice.
Amalfi pulled out all the stops and this year our team—cheered on by the roar of thousands and thousands of people—gave us a stellar win at the last minute!
The moment Amalfi won the Regata! (Photo by Emanuele Anastasio)
This was the third time I’ve seen Amalfi win the Regata in Amalfi and it’s always a thrill. The Regata was a two-day event this year, with the historic parade moved to the day before the boat race and taking place for the first time later in the evening. I had a close up view this year of the parade in Amalfi’s main square as I was assisting with translations for the English announcements. Each city’s costumes and figures represent a key moment in history, and this year the setting was particularly striking against the backdrop of the Duomo lit up at night.
The historic parade for the Regata (Photo by Emanuele Anastasio)
Local photographer Emanuele Anastasio captured the spirit of the Regata with beautiful photos (two of which I’ve included here). You can see even more of his photos of the historic parade and the Regata delle Antiche Repubbliche Marinare on his Facebook page. You can watch the full video (in Italian) of the Regata here:
June was bookended by big events this year as the end of the month is the big summer festival for Amalfi’s patron Sant’ Andrea. This was the first full procession and events since the winter procession in November 2019 before the pandemic. What an event for the Amalfitani to finally have this beloved local tradition back!
This summer’s Sant’ Andrea proccession will go down in the history books for another reason as well. During the procession, Amalfi had a complete blackout that ended up lasting until late the next morning. The procession continued on with many men carrying the large statue of the saint around town in the dark, where I saw it pass close by on the beach.
Then they even did the traditional running of the statue up the steps of the Duomo – in the dark! In the video above you’ll hear two cheers: one as the statue of Sant’ Andrea arrives safely at the top and then another—louder—as the lights come back on in the city. That was enough excitement for this year’s festival!
MEET EMANUELE ANASTASIO
After enjoying Emanuele Anastasio’s photos of the Regata so much, I asked him to share more with Ciao Amalfi readers about his love of the area, what it’s like photographing the Regata, and a bit more about his work as a photographer on the Amalfi Coast.
AMALFI COAST TRAVEL NEWS
Summer is in full gear on the Amalfi Coast. Accommodations are booked at an incredible 91% for July – yet another reason to start planning your trip well in advance. You may have caught the recent article in CNN on the new driving restrictions on the Amalfi Coast by Venice-based writer Julia Buckley. While it’s been making the news around the world, it really only impacts visitors arriving by car on the weekends from June 15th to September 30th and the entire month of August. The alternate numberplate system was introduced to cut down on traffic during peak times of the summer.
But, really, my number one advice for visiting the Amalfi Coast is to NOT arrive by car, especially in the summer. Take the ferry or the bus or book a private arrival/ departure transfer, which is 100% worth the splurge in the budget.
Planning a trip to the Amalfi Coast? Check out my book Moon Amalfi Coast – now out with fully updated 2nd edition. Heading further south? Moon Southern Italy has an excerpt of my book with new coverage on Sicily and Puglia by Linda Sarris.
ON MY BOOKSHELF
This summer my bedside table is stacked with a series of very enticing reads – of course many set in Italy! Check out what I’m Currently Reading over on Bookshop. (Note: That’s an affiliate link, which means books purchased through Bookshop.org will give me a small commission while also supporting local bookstores.) Hit reply to this email or leave a comment on Substack and let me know what books you’re enjoying this summer!
KEEP READING
Want more Amalfi Coast and Italy reads? Keep on reading here:
I love a good short story and enjoyed “Long Distance” by Ayşegül Savaş (The New Yorker) set in Rome.
I missed meeting Ishita from Italophilia while she was in Amalfi (stupid Covid!), but I enjoyed her post on 7 Reasons why you should give Naples a chance.
Please don’t wander off the path at Mt. Vesuvius. It’s dangerous.
Gillian Longworth McGuire, who writes the Substack Gillian Knows Best from Rome, has shared a great Capri Mini-Guide.
I lived in the Twin Cities before moving to the Amalfi Coast so I’ve been following closely the case of the Doryphoros at the Minneapolis Institute of Art that Italian authorities are saying was illegally excavated from a site in Castellammare di Stabia near Naples. Read more about Stolen Italian Art on Italics Magazine.
Check out these local suggestions for gin and beers made on the Amalfi Coast.
WELCOME TO SUBSTACK
Thanks so much for subscribing to Ciao Amalfi! I hope you’ve enjoyed my first newsletter on Substack. My monthly newsletter will be a round-up local topics, stories, and great reads. But stay tuned for more posts throughout the month on my travels, more interviews with locals, and places you’ll love on the Amalfi Coast.
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Ciao from Amalfi,
Laura
Thank you so much for the mention! Ww have to organize a get together with Holly in Capri soon (though realistically that probably means January 😂)