Ciao Amalfi Newletter - May 2023

Sad news from the Amalfi Coast + thanks for being an inspiring community.

It’s unusual for me to come to you with sad news, but the last week and a half has been a challenging time on the Amalfi Coast. It’s something that personally I feel unable to not address. Yet, it’s hard to put into words—impossible really—the sadness of so many people here since last week. You may not have heard yet, but on Monday, May 8th there was a terrible bus accident in Ravello where Nicola Fusco, a young local driver only 28 years old, lost his life. I won’t share photos or links to articles about the accident as it’s quite upsetting. But what happened has left an open wound on the Amalfi Coast.

In these deeply sad moments, I have been reminded of how small and close-knit the communities really are here. There is a deep loss for so many - and anger too. Yes, we live in a place with a dangerous road, like so many mountain roads all over the world, but what happened shouldn’t have happened. It shouldn’t ever happen.

It has left us all shook, especially in the communities around where it happened—Ravello, Scala, Amalfi, Atrani—and in Nicola’s hometown of Agerola. My husband watched Nicola grow up, and he was the third generation in a family of drivers that he worked with as a tour guide. They would laugh as my husband told him crazy stories about his father and grandfather. Nicola was so full of life and passion. This shouldn’t have happened.

This last week has felt like a black void, but one surrounded by the rush of daily life in busy season. I’ve watched my husband leave nearly every day—as it would happen—for tours to Ravello. He’s been on that very bus in that curve with Nicola so many times. I lived at the top of that road for 12 years and I know those curves too. We all know that particular curve. Which is why this shouldn’t have happened.

As I continue to collect myself and find my way back to words, the one thing that has helped has been reading all the beautiful comments shared on my post last week about the accident. The number of kind words and love shared there have really helped remind me of how much goodness there is out there. You all get it, you get my love for this place and the people here. Thank you for being such an exceptional community. It makes a difference - love always makes a difference.

The weather has been rainy and grey for days and days on end, which feels entirely appropriate. It’s by far the wettest May I can recall here - and in so much of Italy where there has been tragic flooding in Emilia-Romagna.

For many reasons, getting around the Amalfi Coast is a little challenging at the moment. If you’re visiting soon, I’ve shared some updates below that might impact your visit.

Despite the heavy atmosphere, I do have many exciting things to share - soon. I’ll find the words again.

Until then, ciao from Amalfi,

Laura

---

AMALFI COAST TRAVEL UPDATES

Ravello:

If you’re visiting the Amalfi Coast very soon, you might have some questions about the recent accident and if it will impact your trip. At the time of writing, the road from Castiglione—on the Amalfi Coast Road—up to Ravello is open with the road’s existing traffic light controlling traffic so it alternates one way at a time. (The traffic light is on 24 hours now instead of just during the day.) The main impact is getting to and from Ravello and Scala by bus since buses larger than 8 meters (26 feet) cannot pass where the accident happened. This means there is currently no public SITA bus connections along the usual route (only some buses can go up to Pontone in Scala, but some of those are exclusively for students). There are bus connections to Ravello and Scala, but via Tramonti - a very long haul. Here are the updates. (Italian only - let me know if you need help figuring out bus routes.)

So if you’re staying in Ravello or Scala, or planning to visit there while on the Amalfi Coast, keep in mind that public bus isn’t the way to go right now. Taxis, minivans, and private cars can pass on the road from Amalfi up to Ravello and Scala. (Or you can reach them via Tramonti.) While the road will be repaired as soon as possible, an investigation is still ongoing so it could be some time yet.

Positano:

The Positano ferry terminal (a.k.a. big cement slab) has been torn up and under construction all spring so far and is still only partially open for ferries (a.k.a. giant ol’ mess). And, yes, it is a stupid time to do that work. Believe me, we all know it. The difficult spring weather certainly hasn’t helped work progress. What’s happening though is that with limited area to access the ferries, the pier gets extremely crowded. When I returned from Sorrento recently, only one ferry could arrive and depart at a time instead of several or more at one time like usual. So everything was backed up and the boat I was on had to wait quite a while to dock.

If you’re arriving or departing by ferry in Positano, be prepared for extra crowds down there until the work is complete. And, unfortunately, I don’t know how long it’s expected to last.

---

SUMMER TRAVEL TIPS

Planning a trip to Italy this summer? Head over to The New Roman Times, a great Substack by Rome-based journalist Laura Itzkowitz, to check out her latest tips for traveling in Italy in July and August. You’ll also find some of my recommendations for visiting the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii. Click through below to read:

Some Advice for Traveling in Italy in July & August

---

KEEP READING

New finds at one of Campania’s most fascinating archaeological sites, news from the Amalfi Coast, spring recipes, and some good Italy travel tips:

• Have you heard about these remarkable new discoveries at Paestum?

• Scala has elected Ivana Bottone as its first female mayor—news here in Italian only—the first in Scala and only the second on the Amalfi Coast. (The other is Anna Maria Caso in Praiano.) Benvenuta Sindaca!

• Le Sirenuse’s Siren Call is a glimpse of the Sirenland Writers Conference that takes place each spring in Positano.

• Starting in 2024 you’ll be able to take a high-speed train from Rome to Pompeii.

• Naples city guide: your weekend break sorted thanks to Julia Buckley.

• Also by Julia, check out these ​7 hands-on food and drink experiences to try in Italy.

• It’s asparagus season still, so Laura Itzkowitz’s Spring Pasta with Asparagus is on this week’s menu.